Party like it's 1894

1894 Borvendéglő - Food & Wine Cellar

Select from a vast range of vintage wines in a cool cellar under the legendary Gundel restaurant.

A FourBees review

Poet Mihály Vörösmarty put it in a nutshell when he penned the lines, "The feast revives and feeds the body, but that which gives spirit, that’s the wine."
The 1894 Borvendéglő - Food and Wine Cellar, which opened in May 2002, takes the poet’s theme and develops it with panache.
This new addition to the Gundel dynasty is situated in the 100-year-old cellars beneath the famous restaurant, but now there is a separate entrance, just opposite Gundel's little sister restaurant, Bagolyvár (Owl's Castle).
Gundel director Gábor Budai pointed out that the name of the new wine bar did not make reference to Gundel, but chose to promote itself as a "ligeti étterem, ligeti árakkal" - a park restaurant with park prices.
Previously, guests who wanted to attend the monthly Zsuzsanna Lorantffy wine dinners amongst the atmospheric ancient bricks or visit the cellar for a range of different functions, had to enter through the restaurant and the managers feared that some might be intimidated by the high-class dining atmosphere and compulsory dinner jacket policy.
The new wine bar, named 1894 after the date when the original Wampetics restaurant was built, will have a more relaxed ambience and guests can pop in for a glass of quality Hungarian wine from the highlighted selection chalked up on a board.
The selection, which includes wines by Dúzsi, Gere, Szeremley, Szôke and Figula vineyards, amongst many others, is changed every month, allowing visitors to purchase by the glass rather than splashing out for a whole bottle.
However, if you want a bottle, you can stay for a full dinner, prepared by chef István Csôke, who has been promoted at the same time as lured downstairs from the Gundel restaurant.
Lining up alongside the cellar walls are more than 100 wines from all grape-producing regions of Hungary, including Gundel’s own Tokaj vineyards.
The low arches, candles in wrought iron holders and bare brickwork evoke a feeling of history and the decor is discreet and tasteful with a few color photographs in frames dotted about.
There is a display of ancient corkscrews and wine paraphernalia in a smaller drinks and snacks room.
Some guests sat in a side room, on high stools by a large wooden bar decorated with mini wine barrels and consulted with the sommelier about which bottle to select.
Some, already ensconced in the main dining area, seated at tables with white cloths and the full silver service, could choose from the full menu which, besides main courses and desserts, includes "borkorcsolyák" - snacks to accompany wine.
Those who fancy just a few drinks or want to sample some of the best Hungarian wines can also nibble on crisp potatoes with dipping sauces (Ft650), honey-glazed chicken wings (Ft1,250), or a traditional lángos (deep-fried dough frizbee) but baked in the oven this time to cut down on the cholesterol, with a thigh-slapping topping of cheese, bacon and spicy sausage (Ft450).
For Ft2,900, guests can treat themselves to three top Gundel wines; a Chardonnay, an Egri Bikavér and a five-puttonyos Tokaji Aszú, accompanied by deluxe nibbles of smoked trout, guinea hen paté and goose liver truffle.

1894 Borvendéglő - Food & Wine Cellar
Budapest – District XIV
Állatkerti út 2
Getting there: Kisfoldalatti (Little Underground) Metro 1 to Széchenyi gyógyfürdô
Tel: (+36 1) 468-4044
Open Tuesday-Saturday noon-11pm
1894 Borvendéglő website

THE STING
Décor 7/10
Cuisine 8/10
Service 7/10
Wine List 9/10
Buzz 8/10
The Bees' Knees 8/10