Grabbed by the Gallics

Paris Budapest Café

France and Hungary in a culinary colision course at this new fusion restaurant

A FourBees review

Once again I have had to don my sack cloth and ashes and give myself a good flagellating about the bottom for having the nerve, the audacity, the sheer bare-faced cheek to expect to find a decent Greek salad in Budapest.
Heavens above, whatever next?
Soon they’ll be stringing up visitors to London from the lamp-posts for the audacity of demanding an edible penne all’arrabbiata in Soho, or whipping tourists’ calves with nettles for having the gall to inquire as to the freshness of the Malossol caviar when in a Roman restaurant. Hush my mouth, be still my beating heart.
I had no such worries in the Paris Budapest Café.
In the heart of Budapest with a gorgeous view of the Chain Bridge, I dined on some divine Spanish dishes and nobody rapped my palms with a ruler for commenting that the anchovies tasted as fine as the boquerones I had nibbled on in a Granada bar as the sun beat down and Madame Julia la Loobia and I rashly glugged back 60º proof sangría at noon like it was going out of fashion.
Nobody came up and poured hot boiling oil over my freshly washed wiggie for the outrageous suggestions that the sultry red peppers reminded me of a hot and tangy dish I had once sampled during my mis-spent youth in the dusty back streets of Andalucia.
In fact, not a soul remarked that it was out of the ordinary to expect high standard international cuisine in the center of the Hungarian capital.
And very fine it was too.
Paris Budapest Café brings the Mediterranean sun and joie de vivre to the banks of the Danube with olive oil, sea fish and vegetables and an emphasis on quality and freshness that was veritably heart-warming.
The show kitchen (nyitott konyha) offers a theatrical dining experience as chefs prepare a fusion of French, Magyar, Mediterranean and Asian (phew) cuisine all thrown together with great aplomb in front of your very eyes and dribbling lips.
Having been warned of the dangers and severe punishments that go with the mention of the words 'Greek' and 'salad' in the same - heaven forbid - sentence, I was feeling somewhat frail due to the effects of a vicious cold front and decided not to risk invoking the wrath of the almighty and thus made a beeline for the tomato and anchovy salad (Ft990) as a starter.
This was not a few soggy, salty, stringy tiddlers but a pile of tangy, filleted fish marinated in authentic vinegars with citrus hints, mixed with lurid green lettuce and surrounded by rings of tomato.
The kind yet discreet waiter had already placed two pieces of focaccia bread, steeped in olive oil and sprinkled with shavings of black olives, dangerously close to my left hand and my companion even suggested another dribble of the virgin cold pressing from a bottle conveniently situated between us.
My suitably chauvinist companion Yves, the old roué from Rouen, tried the baby lettuce hearts with marinaded white tuna (Ft990) and pronounced it very good, the slight bitterness of the lettuce was soothed by the Albacor tuna's sweet flesh.
I used to live in London with Rafaele, an Italian who stubbornly existed almost entirely on that dish, instead of Brixton’s local dish of curried goat and gungo peas, and - shocking though it sounds - he thrived on it, so I made up my mind to try it next time.
The décor is tasteful with attention to detail and elements of all countries with Mediterranean coastlines incorporated, plus elements of the Orient thrown in just to confuse the senses and whip up diners into a euphoric frenzy.
And here a scoop, dear readers: Head chef János Cseh is a secret vegetarian, however he understands - and respects - the pleasures of the flesh.
The decor has changed from the recently rustic Focaccia and gone all sleek and upmarket with clean lines and smooth chic colours, almost industrial in tone.
Orange chairs clash elegantly with metallic blue walls and ceiling hues.
We sipped on a fragrant, fruity sangría, since this was Spanish cuisine week and thus reason enough for celebration.
Then more delights to savour, long after the coffee had congealed.
I spotted the flounder (Ft2,290) and pounced.
The flat fish was served in four perfectly filleted portions, delicately steamed and resting nonchalantly on a bed of Spanish lecsó: Peppers, courgettes and onions in a slightly spicy tomato sauce.
Yves decided to take advantage of the visiting Spanish chef, as he so often does (bruises bear witness), and tried the paella which was a vibrant orange with contrasting blue-black mussel shells dotted about the rice.
A chardonnay from Lake Balaton was perky and insolent and a perfect accompaniment to the more bland and docile Atlantic ocean fish - a fine example of international co-operation.
Most Hungarians are cosmopolitan and forward-thinking.
It is patronizing them not to expect the very best.
Fortunately there are places like Paris BudapestCafé where people know all about good food, excellent wine and a welcoming atmosphere, regardless of nationality.

Paris Budapest Café
Sofitel Atrium Budapest Hotel
Budapest - District V
Roosevelt tér 2
Getting there: Tram 2 to Roosevelt tér 2
Tel (+36 1) 266-1234
Open daily noon—2am
Paris Budapest Café website

THE STING
Décor 7/10
Cuisine 8/10
Service 8/10
Wine List 7/10
Buzz 6/10
The Bees' Knees 8/10